Food Insecurity in Burlington: Unpacking the Overlooked Food Desert

As some of you may have seen in Jennifer's recent LinkedIn post, I had the opportunity to walk in the University of Vermont's College of Arts and Sciences ceremony, celebrating my graduation this past December. As I sat in my cold, damp metal seat during UVM's commencement ceremony, several speakers reflected on the privilege of higher education. This privilege often divides UVM students and the broader Burlington community. 

After living in Burlington for almost four years, I've come to understand the city and its surroundings fairly well. While UVM students significantly impact Burlington's economy, they are usually not the primary population struggling with food insecurity. That's not to say food insecurity doesn't exist among students—UVM addresses it meaningfully through resources like Rally Cat's Cupboard and programs such as Swipe Away Hunger, which help make food more accessible, especially for off-campus students.

So, why am I writing this blog?

Well, here is why: According to the past four annual Homelessness Assessment Reports, homelessness rates among Vermonters have significantly increased. The 2024 report stated that "53 out of every 10,000 Vermonters were unhoused," placing Vermont fourth on the state-by-state list.

As most of you know, food safety is a term that encompasses the practices and conditions necessary to prevent foodborne illnesses and ensure food is safe for consumption. However, it's essential to distinguish it from food security. Food security, conversely, is about whether people can consistently access enough nutritious food. That access depends significantly on where people live and what they can afford. While many of us can grab a snack from their kitchen or make a quick trip to a nearby grocery store without thinking twice. Getting nutritious food is a daily challenge for others, especially those in poverty, conflict zones, or underserved areas like food deserts. That's why global organizations and local groups have prioritized this issue—"Zero Hunger" is even listed as one of the United Nations' top Sustainable Development Goals. Food security and safety are intrinsically linked; if food is unsafe to eat, it negates the benefits of access and affordability.

In Burlington, geography and finances intersect in ways that highlight this divide. The city has only one grocery store accessible on foot, and that is Burlington's Onion River City Market, which is often seen as "boujee" or more expensive than grocery chains like Hannaford, Shaw's, or even Trader Joe's in neighboring towns like South Burlington, Shelburne, or Williston. But here's the thing—accessing those more affordable stores is difficult without reliable transportation. Green Mountain Transit charges $2 per single fare for non-UVM individuals, which adds up quickly if you're unhoused or living paycheck to paycheck.

Without the energy or resources to travel further, many unhoused individuals rely on the downtown City Market location. But a simple sandwich might cost $6 or $7 even there. That leads people to turn to fast food. Unfortunately, downtown Burlington lacks affordable fast food options—a one-way walk to the nearest McDonald's is 45 minutes from Church Street. Burlington's closest fast food chains are Subway and Dunkin' Donuts. The lack of access to healthy food starkly contrasts with current nutritional guidelines, which recommend at least five servings of fruits and vegetables daily. Compounding the issue, many essential food groups—such as fresh produce, dairy, and their alternatives—have limited shelf lives. For those experiencing food insecurity, this can mean consuming expired or spoiled items, increasing the risk of foodborne illness, to simply avoiding going hungry.

So while Burlington may not be a traditional food desert, it can feel like one if you don't have the means to access or afford nutritious food, and that's a reality we cannot overlook. For those of us working in food safety, it's essential to recognize that safety doesn't exist in a vacuum—it's closely tied to access. When individuals are forced to rely on expired goods or inconsistent food sources, foodborne illness risks increase, especially if storage and preparation conditions are inadequate. Addressing these disparities requires thinking beyond microbial testing and hazard analysis plans. It calls for collaboration with public health professionals, urban planners, and local advocates to ensure safe food isn't just theoretically available, but easily accessible too. Food equity must be part of the food safety conversation because, without reliable access, safety becomes a promise that many can't afford to count on.